Epi ES-335 help

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Yeah, it works fine on an SG; the S stands for "solid"
Any fool knows "SG" stands for "Solid Guitar"

As to "front dive", I haven't spent enough time on SGs to notice, but on ESs & jazz boxes, if it's there at all the large lower bass bout under my upper arm counters it so well that I have never noticed it. Moving the button from the heel to the upper bass bout would be much more effective at countering neck dive.
My SG had neck dive & "front dive". Moving the strap button fixed it. The ES has "front dive". When standing, having a strap on, the guitar falls away from you, and you have to pull it back towards you when you play. The strap button relocation on my SG worked to fix both. But the ES is so body heavy that the neck dive isn't a problem. Same with my 2nd SG, no neck dive, but it has "front dive". Honestly, front dive is much more annoying. Though the ES has slight problems with actual body dive, where the body falls down... but it's not bad. The neck heel strap buttons are very annoying to me.
 

RR-Ramblers

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This is a late reply but I forgot to do this when this thread was active
The wire was cut after we put the jack back in. We got the jack in, and we were trying to take out the bent coathanger. It snagged something, probably the ground wire, and we accidentally pulled the wire, breaking it in half. I can't do soldering and only just bought a soldering gun to learn.


I'm sure he can do it, but I can also probably do it janky.
My way of making holes is usually using a screw & screwdriver. But this time that won't work for an endpin. So I'm gonna measure the size of my acoustics endpin and see if my drill can do the job. I'm low on money and can't keep paying this guy $45 whenever I need help.

Ultimately, I'm gonna leave the ground wire broken, and I'm gonna make the hole myself with a drill.

Note on drilling holes in the finish; a piece of tape over the hole location helps prevent finish chips and cracks, drill thru the tape.
 
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Pickups are pickups. There's no reason why pickups foe a semi hollow or a hollow should cost more to buy. To install, you can either use the messenger wire technique* or just cut the old pickup wires at the pickup ends and splice in the new ones.
its not buying the pickups, its having them install them... They know I like to keep my pickups that they take out, so its more because they need to keep the old ones able to be used again and not cut that wire.
 

syco

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I know this sort of a crazy idea , but why not get / make a strap pad that you can secure to your strap , so that it holds the guitar in the position you want ?
 
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I know this sort of a crazy idea , but why not get / make a strap pad that you can secure to your strap , so that it holds the guitar in the position you want ?
The strap isn't the problem - the button's location is the problem...
The guitar is falling away from me when I play it standing up, naturally, with the strap button location, it does that. It's not that the strap is discomforting, it's how the guitar acts when the strap is on that's discomforting - otherwise, the strap is completely fine. I used to use it on a Stratocaster but I sold it, and I don't buy straps often. I have one for about every one of my guitars. So when I sell a guitar, the strap I used on that one I use on a different guitar. For example, the one I used on my bass went to being used on my acoustic. You can see how the guitar falls away, its not something putting a strap pad on a strap could fix... it might keep it in one position but that's not really the problem
 

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Also, it was cheaper to move the strap button of my SG to the top horn - $5 for moving the strap button or $20 for buying a strap pad... more financially suitable option is the strap button in the SG's case. The ES I don't know yet.
 
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its not buying the pickups, its having them install them... They know I like to keep my pickups that they take out, so its more because they need to keep the old ones able to be used again and not cut that wire.
Then do what I said. Disconnect them at the pots and use a string tied to the end of the old wire bundle. Pull the string through when you remove the old pickups. Disconnect it from the old wires and connect it to the new ones and use the string to pull the new wires through. Easy peasey lemon squeezy.
 

Cozmik Cowboy

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And I'm curious... what's special about a Sheraton? It really just looks like a 335 but with a different pickguard and headstock.
335 Sheraton
headstock: plain 5-ply-bound with vine
neck binding: single-ply 5-ply with another line inboard
fretboard inlay: dots or small blocks starting @ 3rd fret large MOP blocks with abalone triangles starting @ 1st fret
body binding: single-ply 5-ply
ƒ-holes: unbound bound
hardware: nickel briefly, then chrome gold
neck: usually a telephone-pole C usually a low-profile D

Designed together, built on the same line until 1969, Sheraton released 1 week earlier in 1958. As I have said here before, I have played 335s (Gibson; I haven't played an Epi one) from every decade of manufacture except the '50s & the '20s, and have yet to find one I'd trade my Sheraton for straight up (but I might trade it for the '64 Sheri I once got to play.......).
 
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Is it a viable alternative to use a strap that is attached at the headstock instead of the body? Is is often done with acoustics that didn't originally come with neck block strap pins. D'addario even makes a quick connect type of attachment to help with that. You will need to dedicate a strap for that (unless you do it on all of your guitars), but it would avoid the whole issue of putting a strap pin on the body.
 

Cozmik Cowboy

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Is it a viable alternative to use a strap that is attached at the headstock instead of the body? Is is often done with acoustics that didn't originally come with neck block strap pins. D'addario even makes a quick connect type of attachment to help with that. You will need to dedicate a strap for that (unless you do it on all of your guitars), but it would avoid the whole issue of putting a strap pin on the body.
I have never tried it on an electric guitar, but at a jam decades ago I played a friend's Höfner 500/1 clone which, missing its heel button, was rigged that way; as a full hollow body, it had natural full-on neck dive, but I'd hang it at 2:00 and within a couple bars I'd be playing it like an upright, with the body over my magic parts & the A tuner in my left ear.
I thought about suggesting James try that, then discarded the idea for that reason - but a semi-hollow guitar might well handle it better than a small-bodied full-hollow bass.
 

Cozmik Cowboy

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The strap isn't the problem - the button's location is the problem...
The guitar is falling away from me when I play it standing up, naturally, with the strap button location, it does that. It's not that the strap is discomforting, it's how the guitar acts when the strap is on that's discomforting - otherwise, the strap is completely fine. I used to use it on a Stratocaster but I sold it, and I don't buy straps often. I have one for about every one of my guitars. So when I sell a guitar, the strap I used on that one I use on a different guitar. For example, the one I used on my bass went to being used on my acoustic. You can see how the guitar falls away, its not something putting a strap pad on a strap could fix... it might keep it in one position but that's not really the problem
I had missed that pic. As a full-figured type my own self (indeed, probably more so), I won't bother being delicate about this - it's not the strap button placement doing that; it's your belly (it would no doubt do that for me if I wore mine that low, too). Hang it higher and presto-chango, the angle goes the other direction; no surgery, no cost, just a minor adjustment in ergonomics.
I have always worn them higher, so as my once-34" waist ballooned to......less than it once was, but a good bit more than 34".....I didn't develop a problem with how it was hanging.
 
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^ Hmmm....

That's a new one: " How does your beer gut affect your tone / SG neck dive":D
 

kipkohl

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- it's not the strap button placement doing that; it's your belly....

Well, it's both actually. My 339 does the same without much belly influence. James, I think your only reasonable solution is to try attaching your strap to the headstock. I would certainly worry about ripping out a strap button attached at the horn of a hollow/semi-hollowbody guitar. There's just not much meat there.

As far as wiring issues, I just re-wired my 339 and I don't have a lot of experience wiring or soldering. I recommend you watch a few videos on wiring a semi-hollow and do it yourself. If you go slow and think things through it's not as hard as some would lead you to believe. Not that it's fun, but it is do-able, and only costs you the price of the parts.
 
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- it's not the strap button placement doing that; it's your belly....

Well, it's both actually. My 339 does the same without much belly influence. James, I think your only reasonable solution is to try attaching your strap to the headstock. I would certainly worry about ripping out a strap button attached at the horn of a hollow/semi-hollowbody guitar. There's just not much meat there.

As far as wiring issues, I just re-wired my 339 and I don't have a lot of experience wiring or soldering. I recommend you watch a few videos on wiring a semi-hollow and do it yourself. If you go slow and think things through it's not as hard as some would lead you to believe. Not that it's fun, but it is do-able, and only costs you the price of the parts.
I know a mod to change a normal strap to a headstock strap... I just need to find a mask... I rip a string off the mask, tie it on the strap, and then wrap it around the headstock. It's not easy, but it works... Not a permanent solution either... I was playing on my deck one day and using my rigged acoustic strap and the mask string broke and the acoustic fell... The bottom of the guitar got smashed in a little. I had it fixed and it was a long time ago but yeah. It was a really old acoustic - think it was an L3 or something? I don't have it anymore. Sold it for about $600 I believe. Had a beat-up case, a missing tuner, and multiple cracks and fixes. It was nice but yeah. Didn't need it. Didn't want it. Didn't have sentimental value, either. BY THE WAY, IT IS NOT THIS:

Before anyone goes asking, it's not this one. I sold it a couple of years ago... and this was in June this year. So it's impossible unless the person I sold it to sold it again.

Anyway, that's probably what I'll do. I'll just buy a new strap next week when I go for my lesson.
 

syco

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Forgive my ignorance on this , but how is your strumming arm not holding the guitar where it needs to be ? Maybe I was taught /doing it wrong , but I was taught to rest ( sorry for my lack of anatomically correct descriptions ) my upper arm/ bicep on upper body ( of guitar ) to tilt it slightly " inward " to my body , then your elbow is free to act as a pendulum to pluck strings .
 
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Forgive my ignorance on this , but how is your strumming arm not holding the guitar where it needs to be ? Maybe I was taught /doing it wrong , but I was taught to rest ( sorry for my lack of anatomically correct descriptions ) my upper arm/ bicep on upper body ( of guitar ) to tilt it slightly " inward " to my body , then your elbow is free to act as a pendulum to pluck strings .
That's like when I put the guitar on the strap - every other one of my guitars with the strap button on the top horn doesn't do that (Stratocaster, Telecaster, SG, Les Paul, etc.)
 
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it's not the strap button placement doing that; it's your belly
just saying - if it's all my belly, then why did it mostly stop when I converted my SG strap button to the top horn? but anyway I'll just use an acoustic strap - I just need to find one at the shop.
 

Cozmik Cowboy

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just saying - if it's all my belly, then why did it mostly stop when I converted my SG strap button to the top horn? but anyway I'll just use an acoustic strap - I just need to find one at the shop.
The move did change the ax-body interaction. My strap-shortening suggestion was for a way to achieve the same result sans surgery.

And any strap can be an acoustic strap; just loop a leather thong/piece of twine/shoelace/whatever, stuff the loop through the strap hole, feed the other ends of the thong/whatever through the loop, tie it around the neck north of the nut & south of the tuners, and Bob's yer uncle. When I added heel buttons to my acoustics, I just took the thong off & used the same straps.

As I said, I had a less-than-satisfactory experience with a hollow-body bass done that way, but haven't tried it on an electric guitar; please report back on your results.
 


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