Thinking of replacing IBG 335 bridge with a roller bridge

[ThreeChordWonder]

^Fair enough. I hadn't noticed TBH.

 

[AJ6stringsting]

I mean...

I always thought those were way too fiddly having the intonation lock under the string like that.

It locks down great on my guitars, solid like a Tone Pro bridge.

One my 1971 V, the Schaller saddle didn't go far enough on the D and the G string to intonate it perfectly.

If you notice, in pictures, the Wilkinson Roller bridge has a longer hole / post mount and once I moved it more forward, the intonation problem was solved and the majority of my tuning issues vanished.

At times, I do ridiculous two and a half step bends and it seems to hold tuning much better.

 

[Raiyn]

It locks down great on my guitars, solid like a Tone Pro bridge.

I'm sure it does - once you get it set. It's the initial setup that concerns me as the string crosses the Allen bolt

^Fair enough. I hadn't noticed TBH.

Common issue with the ≈$20 rollers. It'll work, for sure, but putting the "right" one on after using one for years is noticeable. If I'm honest, if the Guyker had been an option when I had the first roller bridge I probably would have bought it rather than drill and tap the one I got for grub screws.

Either way, I advocate for roller bridges, even on hard tails.

 

[The Robot Devil]

Well, the tax refund wasn't quite as generous as I was hoping... guess I need to put those upgrades on hold for now

 

[Raiyn]

Well, the tax refund wasn't quite as generous as I was hoping... guess I need to put those upgrades on hold for now

Been there, done that. At least now, you have time to hunt deals and pick our brains.

 

[The Robot Devil]

Been there, done that. At least now, you have time to hunt deals and pick our brains.

True! I like the way you think.

 

[Raiyn]

True! I like the way you think.

 

[Supersonic]

It fits a Custom Pro. I'm sure you'll be fine. And a brilliant bridge it is.
But the best thing you can and should do is fit a bone nut.
Your Bigsby will shine with one. No trouble at all. Forget all that lube nonsense ;-)
I 100% bet it's your nut, not your bridge that's giving you grief!

^^^^ This. So much this. Get a new nut with the slots cut by someone that actually knows what they are doing if you don't know how to do it yourself. There's a 90% chance you don't need a new bridge or new tuners unless you just want to spend money on superfluous crap you don't need. People have been using Bigsby's for 70 years without roller bridges and locking tuners and they've somehow managed to make great music. The only other suggestion I would make (and it's not even necessary) is a Vibramate string spoiler if you have trouble with changing the strings on the weird roller bar thing with the pins in it. If you don't have a problem with that, then just get a new nut and see how much it improves the guitar and go from there.

 

[Raiyn]

People have been using Bigsby's for 70 years without roller bridges and locking tuners

People have also made fire for millennia before matches or Zippos. Just because something "works" doesn't mean the process can't be improved.

 

[AJ6stringsting]

I'm sure it does - once you get it set. It's the initial setup that concerns me as the string crosses the Allen bolt

Common issue with the ≈$20 rollers. It'll work, for sure, but putting the "right" one on after using one for years is noticeable. If I'm honest, if the Guyker had been an option when I had the first roller bridge I probably would have bought it rather than drill and tap the one I got for grub screws.

Either way, I advocate for roller bridges, even on hard tails.

Actually, the Allen nut sits far below the string, no issues at all .
And it's far heavier than the ABR bridge, tuning issues ..... solved. Increased sustain and punchier.

 

[Raiyn]

Actually, the Allen nut sits far below the string, no issues at all .

I think you misunderstood what I said.

I'm sure it does - once you get it set. It's the initial setup that concerns me as the string crosses the Allen bolt

I wasn't saying that the string touches the bolt, rather that I though it would impede access to the bolt by crossing smack dab over the center of the Allen recess.

Based on this picture

I can see that they're somewhat offset meaning that a guy with a ball end Allen could make it work without it being that much of a PITA. Still though, that's one of those things I'm glad is a "set it and forget it" adjustment.